Diamond Jewellery Origins

Diamond Jewellery Origins
The word "diamond" is derived from the Greek "adamas", meaning indomitable. In the Middle Ages the diamond was thought to be a protection against the plague, Queen Elizabeth I wore one in her bosom to protect against infection. Napoleon, another believer in its mystic powers, had the famous Regent diamond in in the hilt of the sword he carried at his coronation. The diamond has the legendary power of protecting the wearer form evil, especially when worn on the left side. This belief may well have added to the choice of a diamond for an engagement ring. Continuing the marital theme there is a superstition that a gift of a diamond "quickens the affection and restores love between husband and wife".
From statements in an old Indian manuscript of the first century B.C. it is thought that the diamond was known in India during the Buddhist period of about 400 B.C. The earliest recorded diamond engagement ring was given to Mary of Burgundy in 1477 by her fiance, Maximillian of Hapsburg. It was during the latter half of the 17th century that the Italian, Vincenzo Peruzzi invented the brilliant cut, forerunner of the many diamond cuts known today and still the cut that produces the most "fire" in a stone.
CARAT WEIGHT is the standard of measurement for the gemstone industry. One carat equals 0.2 grams. Historically, the "carob bean" was used as the standard, which, although was not precise, had a fairly consistent weight. This is where the name "carat" came from. For stones under one carat, carats are generally broken down into "points", where,100 points equals one carat (ct).50 points equals ½ ct, 25 points is ¼ ct etc.A .86 ct diamond is said to be 86 points, or sometimes an "86 pointer".
CLARITY is an evaluation of internal characteristics, judged under 10x magnification. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has developed the grading system which is the international standard. The grades range from "FLAWLESS' to "IMPERFECT" and are described below.
One point to keep in mind is that stones with fewer or no inclusions are not necessarily "better", but rather are "rarer" in nature, and therefore more expensive.
By the GIA definition, any diamond graded SI2 or higher has no eye visible inclusions. Inclusions rarely, if ever, affect the "brilliance" or "fire" of a diamond. Light enters a diamond from so many directions, that the microscopic inclusions do not interfere. Only major inclusions in an imperfect stone will reduce brilliance.
GIA - Clarity Grading Scale
Internally Flawless
Very Very Slight Inclusions
Very Slight Inclusions
Slight Inclusions
Imperfect
FL - IF
VVS1 - VVS2
VS1 - VS2
SI1 - SI2
I1 - I2 - I3

Colour
COLOUR grading is also standardized using the GIA colour grading system illustrated below. Colour in a diamond is more accurately described as "lack of colour". Most diamonds occur in nature having minute impurities causing them to have a slight yellowish cast. The more a diamond approaches absolutely colourless, the whiter it appears when cut. Colourless diamonds are quite rare in nature and are therefore the most expensive.
The GIA colour scale begins with the letter D and ends with Z , for white stones (Fancy coloured diamonds such as yellow, pink, blue, etc. are graded differently). This scale ranges from colourless to yellow.
GIA - Colour Grading Scale
Note: Colours may not be realistic due to differences in video processors and monitors.
D
E
F
G
H
I
J
K
L
M
N
O
P
Q
R
S
T
U
V
W
X
Y
Z
Colourless
Near Colourless
Faint Yellow
Very Light Yellow
Light Yellow

Cut
Cut is probably the most important factor in achieving beauty and brilliance in a diamond, but is also the least understood and most vague when assigning value. Cut refers to two things: Shape and proportion.
Shape
The standard diamond shapes are:
Brilliant
Princess
Oval
Pear
Marquise
Emerald
Heart
Cushion
Shape appeal is entirely a personal preference but be aware that shapes that are the most symmetrical are the most brilliant. Because round diamonds are the most brilliant, they are also the most popular. Due to the common principals of supply and demand, round (brilliant cut) diamonds are generally the most expensive shape.
Proportion
Proportion is the single most important element in determining brilliance in a diamond. The angles of the diamonds facets are what causes light to reflect through the stone in a quality known as "Fire". Most diamonds are cut in a compromising way, so as to retain as much weight as possible from the rough crystal, yet achieve maximum brilliance. Only diamonds cut to "Ideal Proportions" (known as Ideal Cut) truly achieve the maximum possible brilliance or fire.
The Ideal Cut is a mathematical formula, developed in the 1920's, for cutting diamonds at the precise angles and proportions necessary for light to be reflected and exit through the top of the stone. In other words, there is no light leakage or "dead spots" when looking into the stone. Light rays from all sides of the diamond are bent towards the centre of the stone and reflect back through the top in rainbow blaze of light! This can only really be achieved in round stones, which are absolutely symmetrical.
Ideal Proportions of a Diamond
Note: The reason not all diamonds are cut to this standard is because it requires losing extra weight from the rough crystal. Therefore, Ideal Cut diamonds are a premium cost, because one must pay for the "lost weight". The advantage is a more brilliant diamond